Trinidadians
also became big travelers. Unlike some thirty years before when travel
meant emigration, the modernized Trini took advantage of the new found
affluence to expand his international horizons. My countrymen were
able to go to anywhere in the world that offered excitement such as
New York City, Las Vegas, Puerto Rico, Paris and Monte Carlo. Miami
was to become the most frequent names which appeared in the lists
of travel favourite travel destinations. It was the closest major
U.S. city to the Caribbean region: as such it was the most easily
accessible. South Florida's tropical climate and good year round weather
was another reason why this city has become so popular with the people
of the Caribbean and Latin America. Miami was the ideal place for
the shopping sprees which afflicted the people, people who had experienced
sudden prosperity in a short space of time.My family travelled frequently
during this period. As a matter of fact, most of my classmates in
primary school had been abroad at one time or the other. In the first
decade of my life I had been to the Netherlands, Belgium, Barbados
and New York. Travelling was a wonderful experience, the type of experience
which can sometimes become addictive. My extensive trips seemed to
indicate that it was inevitable that I may be in Miami some day.
This
finally occurred when the ten of us were en route to Orlando. It was
a simple procedure: after arriving at Miami International Airport,
we disembarked the aircraft and headed straight through immigration.
Having completed this transaction, we and the other in-transit passenger
were herded into a red monorail. We were then transported along the
roof of the terminal to another part of the building. There was now
a period of about an hour before our connecting flight was due to
depart. The decision was made to have lunch in one of the restaurants
located on the airport's east side. Here, one can get a view of part
of the Miami skyline. I do not recall what we had to eat - it might
have been cheese sandwiches - but, I remember looking down at the
road below and seeing a lavish fleet of Trans-Ams, Porsches and Corvettes
gliding by. Soon afterwards, we were on board the half hour flight
to Orlando. A week later, the routine was repeated but with a twist.
Drama unfolded as it was learnt that only half of us had been inadvertently
booked. Quickly, a compromise was worked out. We were all put onto
another airline and were able to make the journey from Miami to Piarco,
together.Close to a year had passed since that second trip to the
U.S.A.. I was going about my business one weekend afternoon when my
sister delivered some joyful tidings: we were going to Miami on a
shopping trip! The airline, in its efforts to provide compensation
for its folly, had granted free travel vouchers and my mom decided
to take full advantage.
Despite
previous journeys, one never seems to lose the anxiety of going away.
I think I performed a dance of delight. Time was spent on arrangements.
Plans were drawn up, visas et al were dealt with. My ten year old
mind impatiently braved its way through this bureaucracy. But soon,
everything was completed. Thus, it was on Friday April 5, 1985 that
the same body of ten - me, my mother, brother and sister: my aunt
and uncle and some family friends numbering four in total - embarked
for Miami.It was the same as always. I was instructed to get up at
4:30 on the morning of departure. I duly tried to enforce this command
into my mind by repeating to myself: "I have to wake up at 4:30.....I
have to wake up at 4:30..." True to tradition, my eyes opened
at precisely that hour. The lights were on, and my mom was there in
the middle of my room packing suitcases. She told me, my brother,
Tyrone and my sister, Roxane to get ready and, after a shower, a hot
cup of chocolate and the goodbyes to my father, we were off on our
way. After leaving Port of Spain, we drove to Valsayn where we were
joined by Uncle Carlton and Auntie Jean. We arrived at the airport
where we left the vehicles in the parking lot (my cousin, an airport
employee, would take care of the business of getting them back home
again) and headed for the main terminal.
We were
in the midst of checking in at the Pan Am desk when Auntie Angela
and her three children - Alicia, Ronald and Kevin - came bounding
in. The party was now complete and the rest was just a bureaucratic
blur. The payment of departure taxes was followed by a short journey
upstairs where we had our hand luggage X-rayed before entering the
passenger lounge. After that it was just waiting, waiting until the
moment every air traveller anticipates came. I stared down at the
blue carpeting, the words "Piarco International Airport"
inscribed all over it, and tried to channel my latent excitement into
constructive thoughts. This would be my fifth journey away from home.
The present situation was all too familiar: the early morning rituals,
the checking ins and the inspections. Yet, there was always a newness
that came with each experience, a newness which we, ourselves, try
to impose in order to add a special touch to the present occasion.
Then, the announcement came over the Public Address system : "All
passengers booked on Pan Am Flight --- to Miami are now kindly asked
to depart at Gate -." We joined the queue of passengers, had
our airline tickets and boarding passes examined, went downstairs
and headed towards the waiting Boeing 727.The Safety Demonstration,
a seemingly hackneyed affair, was presented to us via the crew. The
plane then taxied to the end of the runway, where it stood motionless
for a few minutes. Then, a slow forward motion rapidly accelerated
into a pulsating momentum as the aircraft roared down the strip of
asphalt before lifting off. The 727 is a narrow air plane with three
seats on either side of a single aisle allowing window access to the
majority of the passengers. We were immediately treated to a "show".
First came some of the major towns and communities along the East
West Corridor: Arima, seemingly so distant by car, was now below us
within a minute. Civilization soon gave way to the dark green expanse
of the Northern Range. After a while of valleys and hills, we crossed
over the coastline. Tobago passed us by ten minutes later as we headed
north over the Caribbean Sea.By this time I had finished perusing
the safety manual and moved on to a copy of the Pan Am magazine. I
browsed through, glancing over articles about exotic destinations,
information about the April movie offerings and the latest airport
profile. Soon, the stewardesses came around with their trolleys of
refreshments - basically coffee or orange juice. I accepted the latter.
We were to make the customary stop off in Barbados where some of our
fellow passengers were to leave us: and be quickly replaced.
The
plane touched touched down at Grantley Adams International Airport
in the brightness of the morning sun. The young mind is forever impatient
and the jettison and reloading of passengers, plus the refuelling,
took an eternity. There was nothing to do really but just sit and
stare through the window at the modernistic terminal building. At
this time, we had completed only the first leg of the four hour journey.Unlike
the previous year when we also stopped off in Antigua, the flight
took a more north-westerly route. The interminable time period was
mainly spent looking at vast expanses of ocean shielded by clouds.
The narrowness of the aircraft made movie showing impossible and the
only excitement was going to the rest rooms at the back and taking
the opportunity to examine some of the accessories. We were served
a very light breakfast, consisting of buns, scrambled eggs and, I
think, a prune Danish. Butter was provided in neat little foil packets
and orange juice was in a cup which was perhaps an inch and a half
in height. About an hour later, the ladies came around with their
carts again. This time soft drinks were on offer and I naturally made
Coca Cola my beverage of choice. By this time we were over the Bahamas,
an archipelago that is a joy to experience from the air. Lush islets
surrounded by emerald green sea float by as the captain doubles as
an in-flight tour guide. Andros Island stands out as the largest of
the chain of mostly sparsely populated islands. As a boy not as yet
recipient to the limitations of geography, I was intrigued that the
capital, Nassau, was only located on the smaller, New Providence Island.
Indescribable
ecstasy overcame me when we came within sight of the U.S. mainland.
The end of our odyssey was at hand. For a while, there was really
nothing much except for broken up land. Urban settlement appeared
and, for a while, one can look down at the cityscape getting closer
and closer. We eventually touched down at MIA and the experience was
now for real! As the air plane came to a stop at the terminal building
the captain announced: "We have now come to the end of our journey.
The local time is now eleven o three a.m." I instinctively glanced
down and saw that my watch read 12:03: I had forgotten about the one
hour time differential and realized the need for re-adjustment. We
left the aircraft via plastic tubing and, were soon walking down a
corridor towards the immigration desk. After the examination of our
passports and visas we boarded the roof cars and were carried across
the top of the terminal building to another location. The next thing
I new is that we in the customs section on street level having our
luggage examined. Having completed the necessary procedures we made
a right turn and headed towards the HERTZ Rent-A-Car desk.What was
to follow, was the instigation of a week long battle between company
and client. Immediately, there was a discrepancy: the company, while
providing a sizeable car for Auntie Angela, had only registered a
"compact" car to my mother.I and the other kids were told
to sit down and wait. Sitting soon gave way to standing; standing
eventually gave way to walking; and this, in turn was succeeded by
running. Games were organized amongst me, Tyrone, Roxane and Kevin.
We ran races down the corridor, we sat down again and waited, we played
catch.
So there
it was, the contrasting scenes of contentious adults and animated
children: the conflicting antagonisms of excitement and boredom -
all taking place while thousands about us conducted their transactions,
oblivious of each other.An hour and a half had passed (it seemed like
three) when, suddenly, there was a breakthrough in the negotiations.
Some solution was finally found and we were finally allowed to file
through the sliding glass doors and onto the sidewalk. My aunt promptly
pulled me away from the street, exclaiming : "You better watch
yourself. The people here don't make joke!" The scene around
me was archetypal of modern developed civilization. Cars zoomed past
the terminal while taxi drivers were ordered to move in boorish tones.
My mom and Auntie Angela came out and we joined a group of persons
in a queue. The HERTZ bus appeared and we were transported to a company
parking lot which was located about five minutes from MIA. We picked
up our cars and set off in an easterly direction, towards Biscayne
Bay. A few weeks prior to our departure, I was looking at a newspaper
in my father's office and came across an advertisement featuring a
hotel in Miami called Bayshore Towers. There was an artistic depiction
of what appeared to be a modern, triangular shaped building. Palm
trees flanked alongside while a swimming pool gleamed in the foreground.
Excited at the prospect of luxurious accommodation, I leapt up and
thrust the newspapers at my mom. Enquiries were made, and it turned
out that the hotel's manageress was a distant relative of a family
friend. Contacts were made and, much to my delight, we were all booked
to stay in this deluxe lodging. Or so it seemed.
We arrived
at the bay and turned on to Biscayne Boulevard and, after a few seconds,
the vehicles came to a halt. "Well, here we are!" my mother
announced. I looked across the street in utter horror and enquired
loudly: "This is Bayshore?". Across the street stood a worn
concrete structure which looked nothing like what I had seen in the
advertisement. The building, composed of three stories, was embellished
in a pale yellow colour and was actually rectangular in shape with
the triangle effect being achieved only when one viewed the hotel
from an angle. Overall, it was an aged building and one got the impression
that its present status was second-hand. Out in front, there was a
small, circular swimming pool: the waters of which were perpetually
chilled by the cold April winds. We eventually pulled up outside of
the "lobby" area and alighted from the cars. A glass door
led to the main office which, as we soon realized, also doubled as
a shop. It was here that we found the manageress, sitting behind the
main counter. After the usual pleasantries and transactions, the room
keys were obtained and we made our way upstairs.The elevator doors
opened and we stepped out onto the second floor gallery. The party
immediately split up into two factions with the members of my family
being assigned to one room, and the Eiffels getting another. My sense
of disappointment gave way to relief as soon as I opened the door
to our room. We were greeted by what turned out to be a reasonably
sized hotel apartment. Typically, the living room was in the foreground.
A television set was located in one corner; and on either side, facing
each other, were two sofas which folded out into beds. The kitchen
and dining areas were on the right: the former adorned with the customary
stove, refrigerator etc. In the back, the bedroom (to my joy )was
air-conditioned and furnished with two beds, a cupboard and a dressing
table. We immediately set about the task of settling in: Roxane and
Auntie Jean tested the sofas; my mom launched an inspection of the
kitchen; me and my brother started to colonize the bedroom while my
uncle switched on the television.
But
we were not allowed to get too comfortable. A decision had been made
to go out for lunch and the ten of us were soon out on the road again.
We eventually settled for the nearest Burger King restaurant where
we ate in more or less comfortable surroundings : the chocolate milkshake
I had that afternoon was definitely the best I ever drank - the cold
concoction tasted like caramel as it poured down my throat. Later
on, I found myself, along with the others, at a nearby supermarket
where the shopping began in earnest. Among the necessities purchased:
boxes of cereal, eggs, milk, pancake mix, sugar, salt, strawberries,
whipped cream, frozen pizzas, meat, orange juice and soft drinks.
It was evening time when we returned to our hotel. After a quick shower,
I had dinner with the others and looked at some television before
finally retiring to bed. It was here, in the cool darkness, that I
laid back and reflected on the first day of our adventure.
Our hotel
was located just south of an air route so that, at any time of the
day, one could always see aircraft - of diverse shapes and sizes -
making their way to and from MIA. Just across Biscayne Boulevard there
was a park and, beyond that, Biscayne Bay: a body of water on which
there two small islands and, over which bridges - called causeways
- formed a nexus with the land in the distance. If one looked southwards
along the Boulevard, he or she would have beheld the sight of a majestic
hotel: an enormous building which blocked out a moiety of the heavens.
Adjacent to this imposing (and up to now, anonymous) structure, was
the Mariott hotel - with its red name in large letters on the side.
But perhaps the most attractive place in our immediate area was the
Omni International Mall and Crowne Plaza Hotel. The latter rose in
glassy splendour above the former: like the mast and sails of a clipper
ship. I was to go into the mall and revel in the vast assortment of
shops, food and fun. Yet, I was already overcome by dilemma. Nowhere
in sight where the fabulous mega resorts which had been hurled at
me via the media. Most of the buildings in our area were basically
obsolete and unimportant: even the financial towers and corporate
high rises of downtown Miami - just to the south - I never witnessed.
The park was nice though, with a distinguishable carpet of grass topped
by immaculate palm trees. Once, there was the interesting spectacle
of fellows - perhaps from the Caribbean - playing cricket in this
park, naturally attracting a mystified crowd of onlookers.
However,
I soon learnt that the bay was definitely not for bathing. On closer
inspection we saw that the "beach" was about three feet
of sand in width and, starting at the water line and spreading towards
the depths, it was apparent that the entire bottom of the bay was
covered with garbage . It took a few days, looking at maps and all
that kind of stuff that I was able to make the distinction between
Miami and Miami Beach.The nature of our mission, if it must be repeated
one more time, was shopping. And it was shopping that the triumvirate
of my mom, Auntie Jean and Auntie Angela indulged excessively. For
me, the sensation was mixed. For a youngster who had experienced the
pleasures of Walt Disney World and Epcot Centre, the idea of constantly
trammelling through Sears and JC Penny's was hardly appealing. But
some of this was moderated by some notable experiences. Shopping at
Kmart was one: the size of the supermarket alone representing our
own Hi-Lo or Kirpalani's magnified at least three times. There was
the excursion to Westland Mall with its abundant attractions of video
arcades, video shops and food courts. And, finally there was the trip
to Toys R Us. For a bunch of 7-12 year olds, what could be more appealing
than find oneself in the cathedral of toys? There was an aisle dedicated
to GI JOE - a real American hero; Transformers and Go-Bots occupied
their own shelves and jet planes, A Team vans and Star Wars action
figures were all strategically placed. In the end, me and my brother
were able to add a tank, war boat and other action figures to our
GI JOE collection while my sister also got a Cabbage Patch doll.
Generally
there was variety with a ride in a space shuttle at the Omni contrasting
with a walk through an outdoor flea market with its various assortment
of booths. Any which way, there was always some method of deriving
fun from an otherwise routine exercise.While we did not go to any
of the top rated local restaurants, eating out in Miami still brought
its rewards. After the sojourn to Burger King, it was inevitable that
we would sample the attractions of McDonald's : the "Golden Arches"
with its offerings of Big Macs, Quarter-Pounders and Chicken McNuggets.
But it was not all fast food. While there was the attractive steakhouse
near Westland Mall, we also revelled in the delightful seafood cuisine
of Red Lobster. With fried shrimp up to four inches in length, fresh
salmon in thick sauce, enormous portions of lobster and grilled fish,
it was definitely a memorable experience. For the most part, however,
our dining was done in our apartments. An early morning shower would
be succeeded by a breakfast sampling of Kellogg's Corn Flakes (with
strawberries added of course) and soft boiled eggs or alternatively,
waffles followed by fried eggs and bacon. Lunch, when taken, would
include beef steaks and french fries accompanied by soft drinks. Dinner
was not that much different, save for the time when we had some frozen
pizza - which tasted much better than the frozen pizzas available
at home.
With
its multi-lane freeways, sweeping turns and numerous flyovers, Miami
is a challenge for the uninitiated motorist. And our week was filled
with some interesting adventures. Once, my mother, along with Auntie
Jean and Auntie Angela were on their way back from Westland Mall after
some heavy shopping. This involved driving along the first lane of
the highway. However, ins pite of warnings from Auntie Angela my mom,
ignoring her and talking non-stop, ended up drifting into lane eight.
Their predicament was clear - if they continued further they would
probably end up in another county! Mom had to act with haste. Amidst
uncertainty, the three women came to a red light. Then, as the light
changed, my mother suddenly accelerated and - while blowing the horn
and apologizing to perplexed motorists - guided the car diagonally
across the freeway and into lane one.But this incident was small fry
compared with what happened one night on the way back to the hotel.
We were proceeding down Biscayne Boulevard, about two miles away from
our destination when Auntie Angela, for no apparent reason, made a
left turn and proceeded onto the Julia Tuttle Causeway. Perplexed,
we followed her across Biscayne Bay. We caught up with her about ten
minutes later. I looked around and saw that we were in a relatively
posh neighbourhood with fine houses and tree-lined streets. We then
saw a sign with bright white letters against a green background: WELCOME
TO THE CITY OF MIAMI BEACH. We were now truly on the other side !
Speaking of driving, my mother's fall out with the HERTZ Corp. was
to be expressed in manifest fashion. The problems which began at the
airport, were exacerbated on the second night when my mom's car shut
down for a few minutes in one of the city's seedier districts. The
following morning she took the vehicle in and got a replacement. This
only lasted about twenty-four hours as my mom found another problem
and got another car. But it was soon discovered that the horn was
out of order and another vehicle was obtained on the very same day.
Five different cars in one week - a game of musical chairs had been
instigated at the higher level and carried out by the unwilling players
below.
But our
daily peregrinations did serve to expose me to the negative side of
life in Miami. At least twice when we stopped near a particular flyover
we were greeted by young African American males offering to give our
car a wash. It was a scene which brought me face to face with the
poverty which exists in cities throughout the United States. Nightly
television reports highlighted even darker depths. That week there
was an epidemic in Miami: human body parts were turning up in Biscayne
Bay on an almost daily basis. The body of a young black girl was found
on the beach a few miles to the south of us. There was also the case
involving the rape of a female police officer. She had gone to the
assistance of an "old woman" - who was really a man in disguise
- and was forced into a car before being sexually assaulted. A black
and white still photograph revealed the young woman walking in a daze
near the Omni, about a block away from us. It was a level of crime
which was still unparalleled in Trinidad and Tobago at the time.But
television also served as a medium of entertainment. The latest issue
of TV Guide was devoted to the week's NBC mini-series, "Wallenberg:
A Hero's Story". The documentary-drama focussed on the story
of Raoul Wallenberg, a Swedish diplomat who was involved in the rescue
of thousands of Jews from Adolf Eichmann's World War II death camps.
For days there were biographies of the title character as well as
the mini-series' star, Richard Chamberlain. The two-part movie, in
the end, turned out to be a well crafted recreation of the events
of a dark period - all crammed into the space of four hours combined.
Apart
from the aforementioned newscasts, my memories extend only to some
Saturday morning cartoons and a music video programme featuring Madonna
performing "Material Girl". On this note, it must be mentioned
that the major event in Miami during the period of our sojourn was
the concert given by Prince and the Revolution at the Orange Bowl
as part of the former's "Purple Rain" tour. A neophyte,
I wanted to go to the show to witness my latest idol. I even asked
my uncle if he could take me: the answer was in the negative. Nevertheless,
it was a popular event. I remember seeing an enthusiastic young black
man on the news, exclaiming to the news crew: "His name may be
Prince, but he was sure like the King!". The following day's
Miami Herald devoted an entire page to the concert in its Entertainment
section.In Miami it is impossible to escape the Cuban presence. There
are Cubans everywhere - in the streets, in the malls, in government
offices, in schools. One saw young Cubans zooming down the highways
in fashionable cars and poor Cubans trying to eke out a living on
the sidewalks. It is interesting, this contrast; the powerful Miami
Cubans in their high rise offices and their more destitute comrades
on the streets below. While the former set remains high profile, especially
in its devotion to the overthrow of Fidel Castro, it is the latter
group which represent the average Cubans and their quest for survival.
I still have memories of the time we went to a Cuban-owned supermarket.
Cashiers screamed to each other in Spanish as they tended to the dozens
of customers filing past. Bored, we organized a game of catch as the
adults haggled away. We eventually got carried away in our enthusiasm
and before I knew it, the store manageress was telling me in an accented
voice : "If you all don't stop, I am going to have to call say-curity!".
Needless to say, the game was brought to a premature end.
Overall,
I was surprised at the magnitude of the Latin presence in the city.
Nicaraguan refugees from the Daniel Ortega period were also establishing
their own community - "Little Managua" - while the Colombians,
Salvadoreans and Bolivians were also making their own presence felt.
Some years later, local statutes were altered so as to allow business
transactions to be conducted in Spanish: it was the official proclamation
of Miami's changing course. Unfortunately, Dade County's eminence
as an ethnic melting pot has not enchanted all, and there was an exodus
of dissatisfied whites towards northern climes. In one reported case,
a departing vehicle carried a bumper sticker requesting: "Will
the last American to leave please take the flag?" A sad case
of xenophobia yes but, ironically, this event has served positive
rolls: it has further increased the proportion of Latinos to whites
and, it has removed potential racists away from an area learning to
adjust to racial diversity.
Fortunately
for me, not all of our time in Miami was spent shopping there were
some fun diversions as well. Our visit to Parrot Jungle in South Miami
brought recollections of our trip to Orlando the previous year. We
were exposed to a host of different types of birds, from blue or yellow
fronted parrots to macaws splendid in bright red or blue. We also
visited a relative of Auntie Angela who lived in a attractive upper
middle class area. The home located along a tree-lined street, represented
the other houses in the neighbourhood in that it too had a pool area
covered by a steel and net structure - designed for the purpose of
preventing leaves from falling into the swimming pool. We had a memorable
afternoon, frolicking in the pool and marvelling at the adjacent Jacuzzi,
despite the fact that the heating system was not working on that day.Our
departure was conducted in a pretty straightforward manner. The packing
of baggage, the trip to the airport, the checking in were all followed
by the flight back to Piarco. Though there hadn't been as much to
do as the year before, I still enjoyed my trip to Miami. The chance
to experience different surroundings, and to have fun while doing
it, was one which we grasped firsthand. This final point is important,
for the conspiracy of economic factors at home would make such opportunities
rare in the future.